The Antwerp stitch is also known as the knotted buttonhole stitch. It can be used as an edging for towels and hankies also. Working Left to Right: To begin your stitch, bring your needle up where you want your edge to be. To the right, insert your needle from the front, so that the needle will go in front of the thread loop.

Pull the needle through, but don’t pull it tight!

Bring your needle to the front of the loop. Take your needle through the loop, staying to the right of the thread “tail”. Go under the tail, bringing your needle point back over the top of the tail. Pull snug to create the knot.

For your next stitch, go over to the right the same distance as you first two stitches, then take your needle through the fabric from the front. This creates your loop so you can repeat the stitch.

This technique does take a bit of practice to get your knots where you want them and to make them even. Here are several Antwerp stitches done right along the hemmed edge of this fabric.

To add the Antwerp stitch to the buttonhole edge, first complete your buttonhole edge.

Start at the left: to create the beginning loop bring your needle up between the buttonhole stitches and at least one fabric thread into the fabric. Take your needle down the same place. Pull snug and then add the knot. Move over to the space between the next buttonhole stitches and take your needle through from the front, to create that loop. Finish with the knot. Do this all the way around. The designer stopped two buttonhole stitches before reaching a 90 degree corner and then made the loop stitch going between the two buttonhole stitches on the other side of the corner. Then a knotted stitch was done between every buttonhole stitch with the rounded corners. Here is what one row begins to look like. Note: I did not cut the fabric before adding the Antwerp stitch because this is a large count fabric and it would not have held the stitches!

The piece in the 2011 Award-Winning Designs in Hardanger Embroidery book has two complete rows. You do the second row by making your loops through the previous loops.

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Written by: Ryan

I’m excited to introduce two new clubs for 2011!

Debi has designed some fantastic canvaswork seasonal “snowflakes” (because each one is unique, hehe) that are amazing – she’s got sparklers and fireworks for the 4th of July, a beautiful rose bouquet for Valentine’s, a totally kicking Celtic knotwork piece for St. Patty’s, plus I’ve gotten a sneak peak at the Easter bunny basket (uhyep, adorable) – and many more for the seasons and celebrations throughout the year! And you get to work with all kinds of snazzy fibers and embellishments as well as learn some fun and funky stitches.

Roz has once again created some stunning Hardanger patterns, but this time she has turned them into gorgeous bookmarks and bellpulls. Signature stunning Watnemo designs with vibrant fibers on lacy edged, buttery Lugana!

In addition to these lovely patterns each month, club members also receive special offers and coupons throughout the year just for being part of the club! It can’t get much better than that (unless we could make a stitching-time-creation-machine so we could stitch whenever we wanted! Hmm.. we should work on that ;).

Click here to check out all of the clubs we have to offer!

Written by: Ryan

Cable Stitch

The cable stitch is usually worked in the lighter weight thread. Begin by securing the thread on the back and bring it up in the hole designated on the pattern. Count up two holes and over two holes from where the thread emerges and insert the needle. Bring the needle out as shown (10a). Again, count up two holes and over two holes; insert the needle and bring it out where the previous stitch ended (10b). Continue in this manner, always counting from where the thread emerges and always bringing the needle up in the hole where the previous stitch ended (10c, 10d). To turn a corner, pivot the needle in the corner hole and bring it up as shown (10e). Return to the corner hole and proceed as before (10f, 10g, 10h).

A single cable stitch results in two rows of stitches. Some patterns call for a double cable stitch, or four rows of stitches. This is accomplished by going around the pattern a second time, starting two holes above the last starting point (10i). Notice that the middle row becomes double, adding a row on top (10j, 10k).

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Written by: Ryan

Box Stitch

The box stitch is usually worked with the heavier weight thread and is composed of four stitches, each covering four threads of fabric. There are many ways to accomplish this stitch; one way is shown in figures 8a-8n. Whether you use this method or develop one of your own, be consistent.

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Written by: Ryan

Satin Stitch Block

The satin stitch, which is worked with the heavier weight thread is the basic foundation of Hardanger embroidery. It can form many different motifs, but its basic function is in the satin stitch block. Each block consists of five stitches and each of those stitches covers four threads of fabric. Beginning with the first block (1a), notice that the needle will usually be working at an angle, but the stitch must always run straight with the threads of the fabric. On the fifth stitch of the first block, pivot in the corner hole (1b) and bring the needle up four threads away. Then return to the corner hole (1c) and once again complete the satin stitches. The second type of corner (1d) shows the needle coming up in the same hole before beginning block 3. Repeat from 1a until the desired number of satin stitch blocks has been completed. Remember to check the work for any split threads or missed holes, that the stitches run straight with the threads of the fabric, and that two stitches meet in every corner hole.

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Written by: Ryan

Blanket Stitch Edge

The blanket stitch edge is a very traditional and attractive way to finish a piece of Hardanger embroidery. It is usually worked around a border of satin stitch blocks, but can also be used alone. It is worked similar to the satin stitch blocks, using the heavier weight thread with each stitch covering four threads of the fabric. The difference is the needle will now go straight with the fabric and will be brought through the loop to produce a ridge (14a). After completing the five stitches that correspond with the five stitches of the satin stitch block, form the rounded corner. Pivot in the same corner hole that the fifth stitch used and work three diagonal corner stitches (14b). Embroider the first stitch of the next series in the same corner hole (14c). Thus, there will be five stitches sharing the corner hole. After completing the next five buttonhole stitches corresponding to the satin stitch block, pivot the needle and come up in the same corner hole again (14d) forming the second type of corner.

When the entire edge is complete, secure the stitches with a sewing machine. Using short stitches and matching thread, sew around the border just inside the ridge. Then trim as close to the buttonhole edge as possible without clipping the thread.

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Written by: Ryan