Variation 1

Variation 2

This stitch is fun when used as an airy filler. Turn the stitch whichever way works best for your design. You can also vary the way a stitch looks by the order in which you do your lines. For example, try an experiment stitching the long single stitch first. Then try making that stitch your last. You will be amazed how much different the stitch can look when done in an opposite order.

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The Complete Needlepoint Guide gave this variation calling it Corn Field. You create the corn stalk just like the wheat except it is a little longer. Rather than spacing the stalks side by side, start your next stalk one thread over. You can leave it like that, which will leave some canvas showing through, or fill in with a small stalk.

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Variation 1

This stitch uses a two-part process where you stitch the “stalks” and then gather them together into the sheaf shape. The number of stalks can vary depending on the space you are trying to fill, so experiment with 3, 4, or 5 stalks. Try varying the length of the center stalks to create a taller stitch.

Variation 2

You can also layer them to fill in an entire area as shown in this example.

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Small Rice Stitch

The Small Rice stitch not only produces a nice background but will reinforce your canvas. You can work the stitch in two colors for a diamond effect. Stitch the large “X” first and then add the cross-hatches.

Medium Rice Stitch

The Medium Rice stitch doesn’t cover entirely, which may allow your canvas to show through a bit. Again, work the larger “X” first and then add the cross hatches.

Large Rice Stitch

The Large Rice stitch is very open and airy, almost lace-like. If you are using multiple ply threads, you will want to strip your threads before stitching so that your threads will lie nicely.

Variation 1

Variation 2

Variation 3

Just like the rice dishes we have today, there are quite a few variations. Here are a few to get you thinking. Experiment with colors, size, and cross hatching to get the coverage and effect you want.

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Variation 1

Let’s explore our leaf stitches, which are very versatile. Not only can it be used for leaves, but it can create flowers, trees, grasses, even fur and feathers. It all depends on your threads and stitch lengths.

Here are two of the more traditional leaf stitches. This is another stitch you can vary the length and width to fill your design space. Try grouping several together or layering them for further effect. This is a fabulous stitch for experimenting with variegated threads. You can stitch the leaf back and forth so the variegation goes down the leaf. You can also stitch down one side and then up the other which makes the variegation change between sides.

Variation 2

This stitch can also be used for special effects. For example, this one could be a feather or a wheathead.

Variation 3

This one would be great for grass or perhaps fur.

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Variation 1

Variation 2

There are many variations and versions of the shell stitch. Here are two examples that really do look like shells.

The first shell is worked from side to side sharing the center hole. You may want to use your needle or laying tool to open that center hole so that your thread will pull through easier. Your last stitch is the long stitch in the middle. Don’t be afraid to vary the length and width of your shell to fill the space.

The second shell actually creates a shell shape. First you stitch your shell shape, again sharing that center hole. Beginning in the very center, needle weave through all the spokes, continuing until you run out of thread at the “foot” of the shell. Move up to the next spoke and continue to weave back and forth. When you get to the end of that spoke move up to the next spoke and continue weaving. You will have a row or two of weaving just at the top on the last three spokes. Really tight and even wraps will make this shell pop out and look like a shell.

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Variation 1

Four Step Herringbone

The Herringbone stitch is a very versatile stitch because it can be worked up, down, or around as a border. Using a different color each trip adds interest to the finished area.

The Herringbone is worked one row at a time from left to right. The first example shows how to do the stitch when the rows do not overlap. The second example is the Four Step Herringbone. You place your first row down (blue) and then your second row (red) begins to the right of your first row and stitched over the first row. Repeat with rows three (yellow) and four (green).

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Turkey work is a fun stitch that can be used for Santa’s beard, animal fur, and fuzzy flowers. You can cut the loops for maximum fuzz or leave them looped for depth. This stitch is worked in rows from left to right, from the bottom row to the top row. Turkeywork has some “rules” to make your stitching work the way you want it to. It is the last stitch to do because it is hard to maneuver around this stitch. You will be starting and stopping your thread at each end. It’s important to have enough thread to make it the entire length of your row. You can skip a row if your thread is very bulky.

This stitch is worked in groups of two in order to lock the stitch so it won’t unravel when you cut it. If get to the end of your row and you only have one canvas thread left, you need to include it in your last group (so you’ll have three threads). If you want your loops to be even, you may want to use a laying tool or a pencil as you make your loops. One stitcher said to cut the rows as you finish them, while another one said to cut everything when you are completely done. You will find out what works best for you as you experiment with this stitch.

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Variation 1

Variation 2

The Woven stitch looks like the weaving of a basket. It is great for backgrounds because it quickly covers the fabric. You work this stitch in horizontal rows as shown. Be sure to include the short stitches, called compensation stitches, around your design area or you will have holes at the edges of your area. Compare these two examples, both called Woven stitch by various authors. The first one has compensation stitches, while the second one has open spaces.

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The basketweave stitch (or diagonal tent stitch) is a universal stitch, one you can use for small or large areas. While the front of the stitch will look like the Continental stitch, the back will resemble a woven wicker basket. Because of the way this stitch is worked, it is a very sturdy stitch, actually reinforcing your canvas, while not pulling it out of shape like the Continental or tent stitch can do.

The basketweave stitch is worked in diagonal rows up and down the canvas. You begin at the upper left corner. Stitch according to the diagram below until you reach the bottom right corner. Then work the next row to the left of the one you just stitched going from lower right hand to upper left hand, filling in between the stitches from the previous row. TIP: You need to look at your canvas to see how the canvas vertical and horizontal stitches intersect. To correctly cover your canvas, you should be covering the vertical canvas threads as you go down, covering the horizontal canvas threads as you stitch back up.

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