Outline Stitch

The outline stitch is also worked from left to right however, the needle is kept below the stitched line, and the thread is above the needle. The stitched line results in a different pattern than the stem stitch.

« Back to Stitches

Written by: Ryan

Stem Stitch Example 1

This stitch is also known as the Outline Stitch, Crewel Stitch, and the South Kensington Stitch. The stem stitch is worked from the left to right. As you stitch, the needle is kept at the top of the stitch with the thread at the bottom. This stitch can be done on any fabric with any thread.

Tip: This stitch will really stand out if you strive to make each stitch length the same.

Stem Stitch Example 2

The more slant you give the individual stitch the more definition the stitch will have.

« Back to Stitches

Written by: Ryan

A running stitch is used for simple lines and outlines. It is often used as the foundation for other stitches. The stitches are worked at equal intervals and lengths. It can be done on any fabric with almost any thread.

Most references said to do this stitch from right to left.

« Back to Stitches

Written by: Ryan

The darning stitch is actually a pattern created by several rows of running stitches. The patterns will vary depending on the length of your running stitch, the placement of the running stitch and the spaces between the stitches and the rows.

« Back to Stitches

Written by: Ryan

Sequin (Paillette) Attachment Method 1

Method 1
Come up on the outside of the paillette and stitch down into the same hole in the center. Repeat this on the remaining three sides. Try to keep a consistent direction/pattern for each paillette (e.g. clockwise/top-bottom-left-right/etc.). (Figure T.)

Sequin (Paillette) Attachment Method 2

Method 2
Come up through the middle of one paillette and one bead, stacked with the bead on top. Take your needle back down through the paillette into the fabric (skipping the bead) through the same hole you came up. (Figure U.)


« Back to Stitches

Written by: Ryan

Whip Stitch Bugle Bead

The thing to keep in mind when working with bugle beads is that they are made from a long piece of glass. When the bead is cut, the ends can have sharp edges which can cause your thread to fray and eventually break. If your design allows for it, you can help prevent this by adding a seed bead at each end of your bugle bead before stitching it down.

For the whip stitch, start at the upper left-hand corner and take your thread through the bead. Stitch the bead down at whatever angle you need, making sure that your stitch extends just a little bit past the length of the bugle bead.

« Back to Stitches

Written by: Ryan