Cross Stitch (and Variations)

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Cross Stitch
Cross Stitch

Here is the progression from the Cross Stitch (Korssting in Norwegian) to the Smyrna (Dobbelt Korssting). Do not get it confused with the Star Stitch (stjernesting) which is not completely square when finished.



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Holbein (Double Running) Stitch

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Double Running Straight Journey
Double Running Straight Journey

The double running stitch is also known as the Holbein stitch and Assisi stitch. It is used especially in reversible Blackwork where you want the back of your work to look exactly as the front of your work. For this stitch series, work a line of running stitches of all the same length and equally spaced along the design line. Then you reverse and come back along the line same line filling in between the stitched line.

TIPS: This stitch is wonderful for doing table linens where the back will be easily viewed. Also, use shorter lengths of thread than usual so that there is reduced fraying which can become readily apparent when you do the return stitching.

Double Running Simple Side Journey
Double Running Simple Side Journey

Double Running Variations
Double Running Variations



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Twisted Stitch (Silk Ribbon)

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Twisted Stitch (Silk Ribbon)
Twisted Stitch (Silk Ribbon)

Come up at your starting point and make a couple of twists in your ribbon before going down at your second point, do not pull tight. Here is a straight stitch on the left and a twisted straight stitch on the right with 7 mm silk ribbon.



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Split Stitch

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Split Stitch
Split Stitch (A) often confused with Chain Stitch (B).

Split Stitch
Here is an example of the split stitch as it is being worked.

This stitch is also known as the Kensington Outline Stitch. I added this stitch because it is often mistaken for tiny chain stitches. A sharp needle is used because you are dividing the thread. You need to use a thread that is easily separated like floss or yarn. I found it easiest to do this stitch from left to right. The key is that you come up in the middle of the stitch you just completed on the line you are stitching. Don’t split the stitch until you have pulled your thread almost as tight as you had planned.

NOTE: You can do the split stitch with the back stitch and you are splitting the previous stitch in the middle when doing your back stitch.



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Back Stitch

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Back Stitch
Back Stitch

The back stitch is often used for more detailed work such as lettering and details. Work from right to left striving to keep your stitch lengths even. You work ahead of each stitch coming up at 1 and then down at 2, which was the end of the previous stitch. Then you will come up at 3 the length of your desired stitch and back down at 4 (which is 1 and the end of your previous stitch.



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Cable Stitch

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Cable Stitch
Cable Stitch

The cable stitch is created by alternating the stem stitch and the outline stitch.

This stitch is worked left to right and the first stitch you take the needle will be on top of the line. The next stitch the needle will be on the bottom of the line. Make your beginning stitch as shown below as 1 and 2. Come up at 3 and go down at 4 (on top) and then come up at 5 on the bottom (near where you went down at 2). Make a stitch from 5 to 6 and continue down the length of the stitch alternating the top and the bottom stitches.



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