Cable Stitch

The cable stitch is usually worked in the lighter weight thread. Begin by securing the thread on the back and bring it up in the hole designated on the pattern. Count up two holes and over two holes from where the thread emerges and insert the needle. Bring the needle out as shown (10a). Again, count up two holes and over two holes; insert the needle and bring it out where the previous stitch ended (10b). Continue in this manner, always counting from where the thread emerges and always bringing the needle up in the hole where the previous stitch ended (10c, 10d). To turn a corner, pivot the needle in the corner hole and bring it up as shown (10e). Return to the corner hole and proceed as before (10f, 10g, 10h).

A single cable stitch results in two rows of stitches. Some patterns call for a double cable stitch, or four rows of stitches. This is accomplished by going around the pattern a second time, starting two holes above the last starting point (10i). Notice that the middle row becomes double, adding a row on top (10j, 10k).

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Written by: Ryan

Box Stitch

The box stitch is usually worked with the heavier weight thread and is composed of four stitches, each covering four threads of fabric. There are many ways to accomplish this stitch; one way is shown in figures 8a-8n. Whether you use this method or develop one of your own, be consistent.

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Written by: Ryan

Satin Stitch Block

The satin stitch, which is worked with the heavier weight thread is the basic foundation of Hardanger embroidery. It can form many different motifs, but its basic function is in the satin stitch block. Each block consists of five stitches and each of those stitches covers four threads of fabric. Beginning with the first block (1a), notice that the needle will usually be working at an angle, but the stitch must always run straight with the threads of the fabric. On the fifth stitch of the first block, pivot in the corner hole (1b) and bring the needle up four threads away. Then return to the corner hole (1c) and once again complete the satin stitches. The second type of corner (1d) shows the needle coming up in the same hole before beginning block 3. Repeat from 1a until the desired number of satin stitch blocks has been completed. Remember to check the work for any split threads or missed holes, that the stitches run straight with the threads of the fabric, and that two stitches meet in every corner hole.

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Written by: Ryan

Blanket Stitch Edge

The blanket stitch edge is a very traditional and attractive way to finish a piece of Hardanger embroidery. It is usually worked around a border of satin stitch blocks, but can also be used alone. It is worked similar to the satin stitch blocks, using the heavier weight thread with each stitch covering four threads of the fabric. The difference is the needle will now go straight with the fabric and will be brought through the loop to produce a ridge (14a). After completing the five stitches that correspond with the five stitches of the satin stitch block, form the rounded corner. Pivot in the same corner hole that the fifth stitch used and work three diagonal corner stitches (14b). Embroider the first stitch of the next series in the same corner hole (14c). Thus, there will be five stitches sharing the corner hole. After completing the next five buttonhole stitches corresponding to the satin stitch block, pivot the needle and come up in the same corner hole again (14d) forming the second type of corner.

When the entire edge is complete, secure the stitches with a sewing machine. Using short stitches and matching thread, sew around the border just inside the ridge. Then trim as close to the buttonhole edge as possible without clipping the thread.

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Written by: Ryan

Woven Triple Spokes

After wrapping of the bars is complete, bring your needle up at point A, two threads into the fabric. Insert the needle in the center hole B. As the thread is brought back to A, wrap it around the suspended thread two times, keeping the suspended thread tight at all times. Insert the needle at A and bring it out at C. Repeat the procedure to produce a second suspended spoke. Insert the needle at C and bring it out at D. Insert needle at B and bring it up between the wrapped bar and the D thread. Now start to weave by passing the needle over the D thread, under the C thread, and over the A thread. See diagram 18A. Weave back by passing the needle under A, over C, and under D. Continue weaving in this manner until the space is filled. Insert the needle into the satin stitch block and move to the next corner (18B). Repeat all the way around.

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Written by: Ryan

Flower Filling

To create our Flower Filling stitch, take the double circular web one step further by adding another web in the center, like doing a Dove’s eye. When finishing, conceal the thread behind the loop of the circular web taking it out to the kloster block to bury your thread.

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Written by: Ryan